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TMeeks -> RE: 20% of the town's families have responded! (3/9/2009 11:59:02 AM)
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ORIGINAL: Holdcard I had a feeling from the examples and links you provided that the light and reflector should have been much closer than they were. The other ladies children were pretty wild. When my grand kids got there they were good, but the other children were still running around uncontrolled. I was a little concerned about my equipment to be honest. I didn't want to get it too close to the kids and have them run it over. Actually the reflector was knocked over a few times. I positioned myself almost on top of the light for most of the shoot. Over all I think I learned a lot for a first shoot. I just wish I had a place of my own to set up in. At the church I never know who's going to be there. Having children running around wild is NOT helpful when setting up lights. At one sitting, one of the children in a family decided they were going to change the wallpaper on my computer and the parent, proudly looked on. The computer was behind me so I was lucky to catch them before they went on to more ambitious modifications. [8|] quote:
White balance has always been a issue for me in that building. They have florescent lighting, but I"m guessing they are not all the same brand, wattage, etc. My previous cameras were not sensitive enough to matter, this one is. It took me a while to get dialed in to the larger part of the room, I used the same white balance settings when I did the exercise photos, but neglected to consider the fact that I was adding a different intensity light. That's how I learn, by making mistakes. I like that little screen on the camera to preview, but it doesn't always tell the whole story. The reason why different lighting sources affect your images is the color temperature. The bulbs in normal household lighting is around 3200 degrees Kelvin or 3200K. It's basically yellow and orange with very little blue in it. Fluorescent sources can be anything from 3200K (Warm White) to Cool-White which has a green cast. More recent fluorescent bulb are called full-spectrum or daylight balanced and they are in the 5000K - 6500K range. Your flash is roughly in the 6000K range which is in the 'Cloudy Day' area of Daylight. Next time, try setting your white balance to 'Flash' and see what happens. quote:
The silver side of the umbrella was what I was using, It was my fault for not just doing a white balance shot. I've got to look up again how to do that. I have a gray card but only had been taught how to use it for exposure not white balance. I'll try using the card next time. I'm not very adept in photo shop so for me it works better if I do it right the first time :-) You can either use the card to set a custom White Balance or in any photo program to correct any cast. It will be helpful for me to be able to see a shot with the card so that I can see what the ambiant light is doign to your images. quote:
I've adjusted the flash while on the camera, but never even though about adjusting it in slave mode. I'll definitely have to give the a try. I also need to look up more about the manual modes, I've avoided them because I have only a basic understanding of what it does and how they work. I had started the day dialing everything in by hand (that's my preferred method), by the end of the day I had resigned myself to simply trying to get the light placed correctly (or at least getting the same amount of light on each side). That was the right strategy. Work with as few variables as possible. However, when leaving your camera in automatic and TTL flash the camera, itself, will keep introducing new variables. That is why manual is so important. There are always trade-offs as we make changes to our camera's settings. But, if we know what those trade-offs are, then we can make the best of them. For instance, slowing down the shutter will make for a brighter picture. But, at the same time will introduce the potential for blurring due to movement. So, I generally set my shutter to at least 1/60th and mostly at 1/100th as my minimum shutter speed. With the full set of lights I shoot at 1/200s of a second. The reason I suggested 1/60th is that it should be fast enough to stop too much motion blur while allowing you to use the aperature settings to control brightness. Start with 1/60th, ISO 400 and f-5.6. If the picture is too bright, reduce ISO in steps down to 100. Only then do you start to increase the f-stop values. If the picture is too dark, open up the f-Stop until 3.5 and only then begin to increase ISO. The goal is to keep a constant shutter speed that allows you to work at the lowest ISO and an upper mid-range (5.6-11) f-stop. Only push to higher IOS if you have to. And, only go to a lower shutter speed if absolutely required to get a shot. quote:
Those kids were quite a challenge to work with. Thanks again, Holdcard Finally, is it you or the online photo site you are using that downsizes the images to WAY less resolution than the camera is able to deliver. It's hard to really see what is going on with such lo-res samples. The lack of sharpness, for instance, is puzzling for a D300.
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